After waiting
for the high tide to give us enough depth to leave the Cabanga Yacht Club we
motored down the channel and cleared Recife for our final sail of 2015 to
Cabedelo . We had some decent wind so we raised the main , unfurled the genny
and off we sailed heading for Ilha de Itamaraca .
The island is
set off the coast of the historic city of Igarassu and the part that really
interested me is that they have a protected area for manatees . Unfortunately
the facility was closed for some reason so next season it might justify
catching a bus down there to visit these gentle animals .
After
enjoying a good sail we made our way through the reef and sand banks and headed
around the island to drop our pick in the lee for the night .
The following
morning we upped anchor and set off for Cabedelo our final destination for this
season and it turned out to be a really nice sail with which to close the final
chapter of 2015 . We arrived early evening and after being warned of fisherman
who lay their nets across the width of the river we motored slowly upriver in
the dark until we had Jacare off our beam and dropped our anchor for the night
. Once again we were welcomed with a live band pumping high volume music across
the water but fortunately they did not play until the following morning .
I had
pre-arranged a long-term berth for Windward at the small Ribeira Adventure Club
Marina across on the opposite side of the river so the plan was that Luciano
the owner would meet us the following day and guide us through the sand banks
to his spot which he duly did . Unfortunately as we were to discover on the
full moon spring tides two weeks later is that the trunk of a large coconut
palm was lying under our keel on the river bottom across our berth and during
spring low tide we developed a serious heel that could have damaged our boat
and our neighbours who were back home in the States at the time .
Knowing that
l would get little sleep back home for four months worrying about this problem
Luciano suggested we try and find a berth at Jacare , either at Marina Jacare
Village or Peter’s Pier and with only two days left before we would be flying
off to the Iguazu Falls the pressure was on to move our boat and settle her
into a safer berth . With Marina Jacare Village being full we met Peter who immediately
set about sorting out a great berth for our beloved boat , even laying a second
mooring buoy to secure our bow . Peter’s approach to his business is very
professional and l will have no problem sleeping while he takes care of our
boat until next season .
We really
enjoyed having our dear friend Philippe with us over the final five hundred
miles of this year’s passage , so much so that he will be joining me next
season for our passage to the Caribbean . We travelled to the Joao Pessoa
Airport and bid him farewell until we meet up again in Sao Paulo .
We
fortunately had some time to explore Joao Pessoa which l might add being the
most eastern point of the America’s , gets to see the first light of day on the
continent .
I have known
about Jacare ( Alligator ) for many years and it is very popular with cruising
yachts and is often the first landfall for many boats crossing the Atlantic .
We met a number of cruisers even a French boat who were our neighbours in a
marina in Paraty last season . I got to watch our Bokke scrape in against the
Welsh and sat with the French cruisers and witnessed their team get a hiding
from the now World Champions , the All Blacks . They were not impressed with
their side and there were long discussions after the match about their game . I
have a feeling that there were many French speaking Bok supporters in our
semi-final against the New Zealanders .
The one
attraction that Jacare possesses that l have known about for many years is the
now famous sax player who goes by the name of Jarundy do Sax . Every evening
and l mean every evening at sunset he stands in a canoe and while being paddled
along Praia de Jacare he plays Maurice Ravel’s “ Bolera “ while the sun dips
below the horizon . He ends his performance by raising his arms and saluting
the sun and the crowds love every minute of it . He started playing on the
river 15 years ago and has played this same number over five thousand times
earning him a place in the Guinness Book of Records . He is the backbone of
tourism in Praia de Jacare and a fleet of large cats carrying tourists anchor
off the beach every night to watch his performance along with hundreds who
stand ashore .
All too soon
it was time to lock up our faithful little ship and catch a taxi to the airport
. Our flight departed at 2.45am , an ungodly hour in the morning and we knew it
was going to be a long day flying to the southern border of Brazil to visit the
famous Iguazu Falls and then onto Buenos Aires , Argentina .
Exciting
stuff lay ahead .
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