Well
it has now been confirmed , the weather has gone mad . This being our first
full season in the Caribbean , who were we to judge but the strange
weather started showing itself while we were in Grenada over Xmas and
then again when we returned after sailing to the Grenadines to drop
our daughter off at the airport. Officially the rainy season was over
but we continued to get frequent rain squalls which even had the
local Grenadians totally baffled . The positive feature was that our
boat was regularly rinsed down keeping the salt off our topsides and
deck gear .
During
our inter-island crossings of which we have now done quite a number
back and forth , the weather has been boisterous to say the least
with our weatherman Chris Parker mostly referring to the conditions
as “brisk & salty“ or “very brisk & very salty“. One
charter skipper with many years of Caribbean sailing experience under
his belt stated that this “ Christmas Winds “ season was the
roughest that he had ever seen and referred to the inter-island passages and l quote “ like a washing machine on rinse cycle “ .
This strange weather of strong winds and big seas is a hot topic
amongst locals and cruisers alike .
Our
62nm passage from Bequia to Marigot Bay , St Lucia was no different
particularly the crossing from the northern end of St Vincent to the
south coast of St Lucia with the wind hard on the nose , blowing
20-25kns gusting to 30kn and a fairly decent swell to boot . Thankfully our boat goes well to wind but we have seen some cats really struggling , motor sailing into these confused seas . Chris
Parker's description of “ very brisk & very salty “ was very
apt but we made it in good time and Windward with her new genoa
performed really well albeit she was covered in crusted salt when we
arrived at the entrance to Marigot Bay . Having woken up at 3.00am
and setting sail soon after our first cup of coffee , we were
knackered that evening and after an early dinner at the Bayside
Restaurant we hit the sack .
Our
first glimpse of St Lucia while still well south at sea was awesome .
The majestic , spectacular Pitons rose out of the sea in dramatic
fashion . This pair of volcanic spires namely Gros Piton and Petit
Piton received global recognition as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and
are the island's most iconic natural wonders .
Gros
Piton stands at 786m and has a 3km diameter base and Petit Piton is
739m high with a smaller base of 1km diameter . With its steeper
sides Petit Piton appears much taller than it's bigger sister but
these two eroded remnants of lava domes provide a distinctive
landmark for seafarers . While gazing at these natural marvels l
couldn't help thinking about how many sailors had seen this sight
centuries before me and were just as grateful for having seen them in
all their glory . The pics l took with our little Canon do them no
justice at all .
Arriving
at our approach waypoint off Marigot Bay our first sight of the place
was quite deceiving in that there is a lot more of the bay tucked
away than initially meets the eye . The bay lined with mangroves is
completely sheltered and is famous as a hurricane hole . A palm
fringed narrow sandspit juts out creating a narrow entrance to the
marina and mooring field which is all part and parcel of the
ultra-luxury 5 Star Capella Marigot Bay Resort . The bonus is that
with our yacht berthed in their marina we got the full use of all the
resort's facilities and if your pocket is deep enough you could
easily get hung up here for a while sipping complimentary fruit
punches while lazing at one of the three pools in the resort or
attending free yoga and pilates classes each morning before breakfast
. Cool spot no doubt .
We
enjoyed a unique dining experience at the Rainforest Hideaway
waterfront restaurant where we contributed to relieving a huge
problem by ordering Lionfish which are decimating the local
indigenous reef fish . This fish species which has no natural
predators is flourishing here in the Caribbean but the more we eat
them the bigger the demand and local fisherman will be encouraged to
target them in their catches . Fortunately they are slow moving and
easy to catch.
Marigot
Bay is idyllic and made for cruisers with it's perfect backdrop of
mangroves lying at the foot of steep surrounding hills providing
perfect protection. Legend has it that a British Admiral hid his
fleet in the secluded bay from the pursuing French fleet of warships
by getting his crew to tie palm fronds up in the rigging as
camouflage to disguise his ships . Apparently the French sailed by
without spotting them , smart move .
After
a relaxing time spent in Marigot Bay we sailed north to Rodney Bay
where we had arranged to collect out UK Transit Visas . Obtaining
these visas became a major issue but that story could be a post on
it's own . Fortunately perseverance paid off and they were finally
delivered to our boat . Three months of frustration and aggravation
to enable us to sit at Heathrow Airport for a couple of hours waiting
for our connecting flight back home to Capetown in June .
While
in Rodney Bay we met Naitram who took us on a tour of his island .
Fellow cruisers Tony and Connie joined us for the day visiting St
Lucia's sites including the Diamond Botanical Gardens and the active
volcano which falls within the Soufriere Volcanic Centre . The iconic
Pitons are St Lucia's famous landmarks .
While
visiting the Sulphur Springs our chatty guide told us of a tour guide
who while walking amongst these bubbling springs fell in but
fortunately although badly burnt survived to become a celebrity guide
telling people about his experience of being boiled alive .
St
Lucia is home to lush tropical rainforests , beautiful beaches and
volcanic mountains . Much of the island is still undeveloped which
endows it with it's natural beauty .
Now
with our passports stowed onboard we were ready to sail to Martinique
, a totally different French experience .
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