Allan & Ursula Ward: Port Owen, Cape West Coast, South Africa.

Shearwater 39:
- L.O.A. 43ft (13.22m)
- L.O.D. 39ft (12m)
- L.W.L. 34ft (10.3m)
- BEAM 13ft(3.9m)
- DRAFT 6ft(1.8m)



HOW IT ALL BEGAN .

I placed my order on Nebe Boats on the 19/10/1992 for what was initially planned to be a complete factory built yacht that l would sail home to Durban from Capetown once she was completed. Unfortunately due to the demise of Nebe Boats in the early days of her construction it did not turn out that way, so l decided to truck her home to Ramsgate on the KZN South Coast to finish building her in our garden at home.

For many years we could proudly boast that we had the most expensive piece of garden furniture in town, but at the time l had no idea of how massive this project would turn out to be. As anyone who has built a blue water cruiser will tell you, particularly if she is kitted out with all the systems and the equipment that a modern cruiser has onboard these days, it is a daunting task . Looking at the positive aspects of this project, l know the boat intimately in that l designed and installed the systems, so from a repair and maintenance perspective l have no issues carrying out the work that is necessary from time to time.



The big day arrived on the 29/8/2008 when we craned her out of the garden onto a rig to truck her through to Durban for launching . What followed was three months of preparations to ready her for the maiden voyage to our home port in Port Owen on the Cape West Coast.

We had a fast passage down the South African East Coast including a storm off the notorious Wild Coast and arrived in Port Owen in dense fog. Windward had passed her first test with flying colours and since then we have enjoyed some great sailing on the West Coast.


The master plan has always been to go cruising, so our plans are to leave for Brazil via Luderitz and St Helena Island at the end of February 2014. So far everything is on track although the “To Do“ list still grows each day.

The purpose of this blog is to record our adventure for ourselves, family and friends. Although it will probably end up being a brief summary of events while we are cruising, we hope you will enjoy and share some of our experiences with us.

LIVING THE DREAM .

Monday, December 26, 2016

A BUMPY PASSAGE TO GRENADA .


After three weeks of living on the hard in our boat propped up on stands high up off the ground we had completed our preparations and were ready to relaunch and go back into the water to start our first full season of sailing in the Caribbean .

Our plan was to head around the corner and spend a couple of days in Scotland Bay so that we could rig our sails with the boat lying head to wind on anchor and do our final checks before clearing Trinidad and sailing North .
After the hustle and bustle of living in Peakes Boatyard , the peace and quiet of Scotland Bay was just the tonic we needed and we slept like babies with just the typical tropical forest night sounds in the distance . In fact we slept so soundly that we did not even hear a visitor who must have either flown or swum out to the boat and calmly came down below to eat a banana in the galley leaving a blob of it on the passage floor in front of our cabin door .
As avid twitchers we enjoyed watching the abundant bird life including a large flock of brown pelicans diving on shoals of fish in the small bay and something that was really interesting is that these pelicans roost in trees on the waters edge . With their paddles for feet it is amazing that they are able to perch without falling off the branches . We even had a turtle surface right near the boat and the odd chase of a large fish chasing something smaller after dark causing the phosphorous to light up was a regular occurrence in the two days that we lay on anchor .
Another sound that we had not heard since leaving Brazil was the raucous bellowing of the Howler Monkeys high up in the mountains surrounding the bay resonating from the cliffs across the water . I often wonder what the early explorers must have thought when they first heard their intimidating calling ringing out of the jungle . There must have been many reluctant crew members not too keen to be sent into the depths of the forest to find out what was creating the din only to find that the King Kong roar was in fact a relatively small long limbed monkey .
Two days later Windward was rigged and ready to sail for Grenada so we headed back to Chaguaramas to clear out of Trinidad . Once the formalities were taken care of we could buy Duty Free booze and do a last minute shop before slipping our lines from the Customs Dock .

With the economic collapse of Venezuela and since the attacks by pirates on two yachts last December including a few cruising boats being harassed by odd vessels on route to and from Grenada the modus operandi regarding a passage plan has changed . Quoting the author of our cruising guide he suggests that with the pirates operating in high powered piroques they have speed in their favour but they are generally poor seamen and are afraid of the sea . They don't like rough conditions particularly offshore and using mainly eyeball navigation they don't like being at sea in the dark of night . So with Venezuela to the West his advice is favour the East and favour the night without using running lights and maintaining radio silence .

Our plan was to motorsail along Trinidad's North Coast as close inshore as possible to avoid the main current but heading in an easterly direction meaning that the wind would be on the nose and depending on the size of the swell this could be pretty arduous . We would continue for about 15nm due east improving our wind angle to Grenada tremendously and then we would turn north and sail for my waypoint that l had laid 4nm east of Poinsettia gas rig with the wind hopefully slightly forward of the beam .

Unfortunately Murphy had a different plan and while we were motoring through Monos Bocas heading for the open sea l noticed that our brand new fancy clutch with no power to it was driving our watermaker pump that had no water running through it therefore causing it to overheat and cook . The high ambient air temperature within the engine compartment had caused the air-gap to close effectively engaging the clutch . In an attempt to try and prevent any further damage taking place within the pump our only option was to cut the engine and set sail for Grenada immediately .

By now it was getting dark so up went the main and we unfurled our new Genoa . With full sail up we sheeted in hard and set a course for my gas rig waypoint . Our boat is not called Windward for nothing and with 18kn gusting 20 , sailing as close-hauled as possible we powered our way north managing to hold a course for our all important waypoint .

It was hard sailing with the boat well heeled but we were making great progress and maintaining good boatspeed and what made the First Mate happy was that in these difficult conditions it was highly unlikely that any pirate would want to be at sea in a piroque .

Occasionally when the rain squalls came through we would head up a little and dump a bit of mainsail but all in all it was an invigorating sail . Once we had reached our gas rig waypoint we were able to bear off to Grenada and now with the wind square to our beam our boat took off , surfing all the way to our approach waypoint off Prickly Bay at times clocking over 10kns of speed over ground . The net result is that we arrived earlier than planned and had to lie hove-to waiting for first light to enter the bay . Our set rule is that we never enter a new anchorage in the dark .

As our first sail of the season l found it exhilarating and fell in love with the boat all over again . Although my little wife is never overly impressed when her house leans over too much she knew that no pirate would have attempted to board a yacht surfing along at those speeds in those conditions .


Once there was sufficient light to see clearly we slowly motored into the bay and dropped the hook . After a hot cup of coffee we both fell into bed and slipped into a coma , job done .    

OFF THE HARD , BACK INTO THE WATER .

THE FIRST MATE KEEPING AN EYE ON THINGS .

LAST MINUTE TOUCHES .

LINING UP FOR THE TRAVEL-LIFT .

FATHER XMAS DISGUISED AS BILLY WRAY .
RIGGER , SAILOR , SURVEYOR OF MANY , MANY YEARS .

READY TO LIFT OFF THE LOWBED .

GETTING HER BUM WET AGAIN .

AT LONG LAST , A BIT OF PEACE AND TRANQUILITY .

RIGGING OUR SAILS IN SCOTLAND BAY .

LIMING IN SCOTLAND BAY .

AFTER A HARD BEAT ALL NIGHT WE DROPPED THE HOOK IN PRICKLY BAY , GRENADA .

Saturday, December 17, 2016

BACK TO THE CRUISING LIFE .


After a particularly cold winter back home on the Cape West Coast in South Africa we are now back on our boat in tropical Trinidad . What probably made this one feel even colder is that the last winter we spent at home was in 2013 as 2014 and 2015 were spent in Brazil and up until July 2016 we hung around the equator off the North Coast of South America , a very different experience to winter on the West Coast .

After nearly five months on the hard at Peake Yacht Services Windward is in great shape albeit she needed a bit of cosmetic work done on her to get her back to her pretty self again after many miles under her keel since we left home in early 2014 . Her teak deck has had a complete treatment to brighten up the timber and has now been restored to the original honey colour as new and her topsides have been acid washed followed up by a polish and wax . The rivers in Brazil particularly the Kourou River in French Guiana left a brown stain above the waterline but now we have a shine second to none . The brightwork has been restored and is looking great after a number of coats of Deks Olje and the stainless steelwork is due to get a thorough polish . Mechanically she is 110% with our Perkins engine fully serviced , a brand new electro-magnetic clutch on our watermaker and all the systems throughout the boat checked and tested including the latest software updates on all our electronic equipment . The amount that it cost us to service our liferaft and replace all our flares , back home you could buy a decent small car and still have some change . By the time we sail for Grenada she should be as good as new and hopefully the “ To Do “ list will be scrunched and tossed in the bin .

Being our first full season in the Caribbean we have lots to get excited about with so many islands out there waiting to be explored . From what we have been told by many cruisers that we have met here in Chaguaramas is that one must not rush through these islands as there are so many things to see and do and being keen hikers ( walkers ) there are plenty of options whether it is a hiking trail or just exploring the surrounding area from the anchorages .

From the communication side of things it is a lot easier here than it was in Brazil and Argentina with mainly Portuguese and Spanish being spoken there , although after two seasons of cruising Brazil we could get our message across quite comfortably along with various hand signals . Speaking of hand signals , l discovered after six months of being in Brazil that the classic dive signal meaning “ l am OK “ or in everyday use indicating that something is perfect , has a very different meaning to Brazilians . After a wonderful meal or after some good deed being done for us l would show the relevant Brazilian this hand gesture not realizing that in effect l was calling him an a..hole . I often wondered why some chefs did not seem to enjoy my sign of appreciation .

Getting back to the local Trini's , you sometimes need to concentrate carefully when chatting with them as they have a unique version of the good old Queen's English . Prior to arriving in the Caribbean the only time l had ever heard them speak was probably listening to the West Indian cricket team being interviewed on TV or radio . But they are a wonderful bunch of people who will greet you even if you are walking past on the opposite side of the road . Proper etiquette requires you to first greet someone and check on their well-being before asking for directions or posing a question . With a large Rasta population reggae music is played everywhere and my man Kerwin who has been giving me a hand on the boat plays some of the best reggae that l have ever heard , all day while we work . After noticing that this white man was enjoying the reggae beat the volume was immediately turned up and now and then l get told who the artist is and from which island he is from .

Changing the subject completely , the other day while lying flat on the saloon floor and checking out our bilge pumps our boat started to shake violently with the rigging slapping the mast and all sorts of gear rattling around inside the lockers . Bear in mind that our boat is standing high off the ground being supported by props so falling over would be a disaster particularly if one happens to be inside the boat at the time .
It turns out that it was an earthquake of 6,2 on the Richter Scale not to faraway with its epicentre between Trinidad and Tobago . Apparently people who were sitting in the boatyard's restaurant bolted outside away from the building and according to other cruisers , doors and windows rattled in their frames . Since then this undersea earthquake has been all the talk on the local radio stations and amongst the locals themselves . Two aftershocks followed later in the evening and the word is that after this event there will be an extended period of minor tremors for quite sometime . The sooner we get back into the water the better .

Never a dull moment in this cruising life .


Thursday, December 15, 2016

LIMING IN TRINIDAD .

61st BIRTHDAY IN TRINIDAD .

CATCHING UP WITH GOOD FRIENDS .
WE FIRST MET ALEX & JONI ON THEIR CATAMARAN RAPTOR DURING OUR CROSSING ON ST HELENA ISLAND , THEN AGAIN IN BRAZIL AND NOW IN THE CARIBBEAN .

ATTENDING TO BUSINESS IN DOWNTOWN PORT OF SPAIN .

MY MAN KERWIN .
COILED ON HIS HEAD ARE SOME IMPRESSIVE DREADS .

THE DREADED " MONTH END ".

LEANNA , ONE OF OUR GOOD TRINI FRIENDS POPPED IN FOR DINNER .


Tuesday, May 31, 2016

CHAGUARAMAS . TRINIDAD . A BOATING MECCA .


Trinidad is the most southern of the Caribbean islands and therefore arguably the safest in terms of hurricanes (touch wood). Grenada roughly 80nm to the north got hammered by Hurricane Ivan in 2004 devastating the island with 90% of the buildings on the island laid to waste . This makes Trinidad the logical choice to store your boat through the hurricane season .

Chaguaramas is where it all happens in the world of boats whether they be sailboats or motoryachts . When it comes to haul-out facilities , long-term storage , chandlers and every service that you would require being a boat owner , its all here . Having done my research on the available boatyards here in Chaguaramas prior to arriving l am now very comfortable with my choice of Peake Yacht Services as these guys are super professional . Their storage facility is a huge flat property that can accommodate approx 350 vessels and with their 150 ton travel-lift there are a number of big boats in their yard including an 82 footer that was recently attacked by pirates on route between Grenada and Trinidad . Strangely enough the second boat a 32 footer that was attacked as well is also here but on the water in Peake's Marina . These incidents by apparently the same pirate boat caused great consternation in the cruising world and the boating industry along with the Trinidad & Tobago Government have taken the issue very seriously as it seems to have affected their business quite badly in that even in late May there is still a lot of available space in the yard .

With 2016 being our third season of cruising l needed to catch up with some long overdue maintenance , mainly cosmetic work to keep appearances up and a few minor mods that now sailing in the tropics are proving necessary.
Apart from fitting fans around the boat to cool the interior , the fridge/freezer compressor compartment now has a cooling fan and the few lockers that weren't fitted with louvered vents are now all well ventilated .
I still had to repair the damages our boat suffered in Brazil when the mooring chain broke in the marina at the Iate Clube Espirito Santo but with all the resources available here in Chaguaramas there is not much left to do on my list.

The plan is to leave our boat on the hard here at Peakes through the hurricane season and return home for a break and catch up with our land life . Early December we will return and stock the boat with all the good things in life and start our Caribbean adventure . Tobago,Grenada,The Grenadines,St Vincent and St Lucia would be a good start and if time permits this coming season we could probably squeeze in Martinique and Barbados before heading south again back to Trinidad to haul-out for the 2017 hurricane season .

I am still trying to get my head around the fact that these long thought about cruising destinations are now just up the road . Eish l can't wait .






CHAGUARAMAS , TRINIDAD .

THANK YOU FATHER FOR OUR DAILY ROTI , AMEN .
THE WELL KNOWN BLUE ROTI HOUSE AT POWERBOATS .

NOTHING QUITE LIKE EATING YOUR DAILY ROTI WHILE BEING WATCHED BY A BUNCH OF THESE GUYS ABOVE YOU IN THE TREES .

KAMIKAZE PELICANS .
AT NIGHT THE LIGHT AT THE END OF THE DOCK ATTRACTS THE FISH AND THEY ATTRACT THESE PELICANS WHO DIVE ON THEM FROM GREAT HEIGHTS OUT OF THE DARKNESS .

READY AND WAITING TO BE HAULED .

PLACING THE SLINGS .
NOTE THE RESIDENT DIVER CHECKING THAT THE SLINGS ARE CLEAR OF ANY UNDERBODY COMPONENTS .

UP , UP AND AWAY .
NOTE THE BROWN STAIN ABOVE THE WATERLINE FROM THE RIVERS IN BRAZIL AND FRENCH GUIANA .

THIS 150 TON TRAVEL-LIFT HANDLED WINDWARD WITH EASE .

BLASTING ALL THE NASTIES OFF OUR HULL .

ALMOST CLEAN AND READY TO BE TAKEN INTO THE YARD .

TRANSFERRED FROM THE TRAVEL-LIFT TO THIS SPECIALIST RIG TO BE TAKEN TO OUR ALLOCATED SPOT .

GETTING READY TO PLACE THE SUPPORTS UNDER THE HULL .

BLOCKING THE KEEL AND PLACING THE STANDS .

THESE GUYS ARE REAL PRO'S .
BUSY ADJUSTING THE STANDS TO GET EVEN PRESSURE AROUND THE HULL .

ALL DONE AND DUSTED .

OUR NEW FULL BOAT COVER TO PROTECT WINDWARD FROM THE CARIBBEAN SUN / RAIN .

TRINIDAD & TOBAGO SAILING ASSOCIATION .
YACHTS LYING ON FORE AND AFT MOORINGS IN FRONT OF THE YACHT CLUB .

CREWS INN .
AN UPMARKET RESORT MARINA .

CREWS INN WATERFRONT .
RESTAURANTS , COFFEE SHOP AND VARIOUS RETAIL SHOPS .

PEAKE YACHT SERVICES .
RESTAURANT , SMALL HOTEL , OFFICES AND LAUNDROMAT .

PART OF THE STORAGE FACILITY .

PEAKES MARINA .
GENERALLY SERVES AS A PARKING LOT FOR BOATS WAITING TO BE HAULED .

GASPAR GRANDE ISLAND .
LIES OFF CHAGUARAMAS .

THE OWNER OF THIS BOAT OBVIOUSLY HAS NO INTENTIONS OF GOING ANYWHERE SLOWLY .

Sunday, May 22, 2016

BRAZIL TO THE CARIBBEAN .


This is a passage that l have looked forward to sailing for many years after hearing fellow sailors who have completed this route talk about strong North West setting currents and favourable trade winds all heading in the right direction with the end goal of arriving in the Caribbean .

The reality was a little different in that although there was plenty of current it wasn't always favourable and at times it was a little forward or aft of our beam causing our heading and course over ground to be very different as our autopilot compensated for the effects of the current . When it was in our favour we clocked good daily runs without even pressing the boat too hard with our best 24 hour run of 220nm ( 407km for the landlubbers ).

With the mighty Amazon River and other large powerful rivers off our port beam the influence that they have hundreds of miles off the coast is quite remarkable.
At one point during our passage we were sailing along nicely when we noticed what initially appeared to be a reef dead ahead of us . For miles across our bow a line of small wavelets and disturbed water stretched for as far as the eye could see and once we had entered this strip of troubled water the effects of a very powerful current at 90 degrees to our course were felt prompting our autopilot to change our heading to keep us on track . Visually there is a distinct change in the colour of the water and the water temp within an instant changes by up to 3 degrees Celsius . Bear in mind this is hundreds of miles off the coast in seas that are kilometres deep .
The best way to describe this scene is to imagine yourself standing on the banks of a large river in an open plain . We came across these “ rivers of current “ on many occasions during this passage .

At one point we started seeing rafts of vegetation streaming past us and later we found out that apparently the plant species is Sargasso Weed which is now spreading rapidly being swept along in these strong currents . I am told that if you take a clump of this weed and shake it many small crustaceans and small living organisms fall out and apparently these rafts provide protection for small fish that hide in their growth .

After rounding the North East corner of Brazil we headed virtually in a straight line for French Guiana . One night while doing the “ graveyard watch “ l noticed a glow off our port side which after checking the charts turned out to be the city of Fortaleza . Nothing amazing about that except that we were 78nm off the Brazilian Coast . I would never have believed that the artificial light generated from a city at night would extend that far offshore .

We were now in an area called the ITCZ commonly referred to as the doldrums . It is a belt of low pressure that circles the earth near the equator and it is characterized by erratic weather . Large cumulus cloud banks which lead to powerful rain squalls , generating torrential downpours accompanied by strong gusting winds . These nasties keep you on your toes and keeping a sharp look-out , mainly on radar at night is key in preventing being caught out unawares with too much sail up . The standard rule onboard is two reefs in the main every night at sunset and with our genoa being on a rollerfurler it is relatively easy to reduce our foresail area quickly . One night we were nailed by a biggie with winds gusting into the top forties and rain being blown horizontal to the surface. During the day these squalls are easy to monitor and at night they appear as large yellow shapes on our radar screen always with that menacing , angry look. The only good thing about them is that usually they don't last that long before they overtake you and move on although our biggie stayed with us for longer than we would have liked because we were slap in front of it's centre and it moved straight over us headed in the same direction as we were going .

But of course the highlight of this passage would be my first crossing of the Equator at sea behind the wheel of my own boat . A big moment in my life that we had to film using a GoPro camera because a squall chose to accompany us up to the line that separates the Northern and Southern hemispheres . Another large tick off the “ bucket list “.

This is also an area with a very interesting seabed . Huge seamounts ( mountains ) rising up from the floor of the ocean to just short of the surface .
One named Banco Canopus on our chart rises from 3000m ( 3kms ) to just 50m from the surface with its one face almost sheer to the bottom . It put a new perspective on how submarines would have to navigate to avoid colliding with one of these obstructions hundreds of miles at sea .

During the entire passage flying fish were in abundance , thousands of them with some unfortunate enough to land up on our decks and even in our cockpit . The special moments were when we had dolphins popping in for a visit as they almost seem excited to see you . Generally we spot them from a distance jumping clear of the surface while taking a good look at us , but once they reach our boat they tuck in and surf our bow wave . The best seat in the house is on the bowsprit and although l have enjoyed many contacts with dolphins over the years , seeing them that close turning on their sides and making eye contact is something to be cherished .

Finally Trinidad came into view and we sailed the length of the North Coast of the island heading for Boca de Monos the passage that leads into the Gulf of Paria and our final destination Chaguaramas where we tied up to the Customs Dock and checked into the country .

Our 2200nm voyage had gone really well and my good mate Philippe Gouffon turned out to be an excellent sailing companion , treating the boat like his own and always up to the task . He played a big part in making this passage a success .

What lies ahead is a number of seasons of cruising and exploring the Caribbean Islands , a mouthwatering prospect .



PASSAGE TO THE CARIBBEAN .

SPECIAL MOMENTS WITH DOLPHINS .
                                         
ANOTHER FLYING FISH BITES THE DUST .

TRAILS OF SARGASSO WEED FOR MILES ON END .

SAILING IN THE DOLDRUMS .
ONE RAIN SQUALL AFTER THE OTHER .

THE BIG MOMENT , CROSSING THE EQUATOR .

A TYPICAL TROPICAL RAIN SQUALL .
NOTE THE HEAVY RAIN AT IT'S BASE .

THE ONE THING MOST OF US DON'T DO OFTEN ENOUGH , WATCHING THE SUN RISE .

ANOTHER BEAUTIFUL SUNSET AT SEA .

THE NORTH COAST OF TRINIDAD .

HEADING THROUGH BOCA DE MONOS INTO THE GULF OF PARIA .

CHAGUARAMAS OUR FINAL DESTINATION AFTER 2200NM FROM BRAZIL .

RAISING THE FLAG OF TRINIDAD & TOBAGO .